Dog Life Video

Archive for December, 2009

(By Joe Cinova)

So here’s the big question. When and how do I start to cut my dog’s nails? It’s a great question and with a little education and the right tools you can be on your way shortly. In this article I’ll also give you my #1 secret for cutting a small, little, nervous dogs’ nails.

 The first thing you need to do before starting is to understand the whole procedure or it can be quite a traumatic experience for your pet and for you. The process itself is much easier on a dog that has “white” or “light-colored” nails than those like my Miniature Pinchers that are black.  Ok so let’s get started.

 The first step in developing a successful program for cutting your pets nails is starting when they are young. Very young! Although cutting nails is a common occurrence for us, for a dog it’s probably one of the most nerve-racking things they can be put through. Getting them use to having their nails cut is so important. It’s something that will help them and you for years to come.

As soon as we got our girls home from the breeder, I got them used to having their nails cut. I developed my own process and started using it immediately. Even if I didn’t really cut their nails I would go thru the actions of doing so. This way it becomes second nature to them.

 Next, they always were treated and praised with a cookie after I am done. They very easily relate me cutting their nails to a positive outcome, providing I’ve done it correctly. To do so, the first and foremost item you need is a proper pair of nail cutters. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use nail clippers meant for a human. Here’s why.

 A dogs nails are different in 3 important ways. First, they are much harder than our nails. Second, their nails have what is called the “quick”. This is where the “living” part of the nail begins. And third, a dogs nails are shaped completely different than ours. They are basically “flat and curved to the shape of our fingers.

 The right nail cutters will make all the difference in the world. There are 2 basic types to consider. There are guillotine cutters or scissor type. Generally speaking the scissor type is better suited to a smaller animal in my opinion. Having to manipulate the larger guillotine type cutter on small nails just isn’t an easy thing to do. Also, the scissor type nail cutters have a “backing” plate to prevent you taking off too much nail at one time.

 Both of these cutters work well on a pet’s claws for one big reason. They are shaped to enclose and cut all around the nail in one shot. If you used regular clippers for a human, they will “crush” the nail and it will break off in pieces. Your dog will go nuts.

 When we cut our nails we know we can safely cut the nails down very close to the tip of the finger. If we cut too close to the skin, IT HURTS! Well, in a similar fashion, if we cut too close to the “quick” on a dog’s nails IT WILL HURT THE DOG. Preventing this from happening is the difference between keeping them happy and you from sweating bullets.

 So what is the ”quick” in a dog’s nail? Simply put it is a blood vessel that runs inside the center of a dogs nail. This is the part that you need to watch out for and the longer you wait between cuttings the closer to the end of the nail it will be.

On light colored nails it is easy to see. It is the “pinkish or whitish” looking colored part of the nail closer to the paw. Shining a light thru the bottom of the nail will also let you see it better. For dogs with darker or black nails it is much more of a challenge to cut the nail properly. Shining a light may help but the proper way to do it is a little at a time.

 As you cut off very small sections of the dark colored nail you need to keep looking at the front edge of the nail. The nail will have a top dark color and the bottom will be a light or off color white. Once you cut the nail and are at a section where the “top dark color” turns to a slight gray or even a pinkish looking color, you need to stop. This is where the “quick” begins. Success! One down seven to go.

 Clipping their nails on a REGULAR basis will help tremendously. Every three to four weeks should do the job. Even small cuts automatically make the quick retreat back towards the paw. This is what you want to happen so it’s not as much of a worry. This is especially true for dark colored nails.

 If you wait too long between cuttings it is a major discomfort to the animal. It can cause health issues including sore feet and hip problems. The nails should barely touch the ground when they walk. So if you hear them tapping on the floor or see them getting caught in the rugs, it’s time to cut them.

Now for my #1 secret for cutting a small, little, nervous dogs’ nails. Remember I told you I have Min Pins. They are quite a high strung breed and never have and still don’t take well to having their nails cut. The girls, who are 5 years old aren’t that bad. TC on the other hand is a male. He just turned 17 years old this year and is still feisty as ever.

 He is the one that needs all the comfort and understanding in the world before I can touch him. He has never gotten used to it until a few years back. The secret I use is to cover him with his own blanket while I am cutting his nails.

He always tried to nip whoever cut his nails. So I first bought a small muzzle. That stopped him from biting but it made him More nervous. So I decided to place his blanket on my lap put him on it and cover him up in it while I cut. It calmed him down, which calmed me down and now we’re both friends again. LOL!

 I reach in and take one paw at a time and it’s now a pleasure. For whatever reason, having the blanket around him keeps him calm so it’s well worth trying especially on a smaller dog. You’ve seen the same effect on other animals. Ever watch them try to wrap up an alligator on TV? What’s the first thing they do? They throw a blanket over their eyes. Well its doing the same thing here, its keeping them calm.

 Talk to your vet and have them show you the correct procedure for trimming your pets nails. Use sharp nail cutters and remember to start them young and keep their nails trimmed. Proper pet care is a great responsibility. The most important thing for you is consistency and patience. Don’t let the little things stop you from enjoying their company. You’ll be glad you didn’t and so will they!

 Thanks for reading.

 Copyright Cinova LLC – 2009

Joe is an on-line author and internet affiliate marketer. As an individual that’s been involved with sports for years including martial arts (2nd Degree Black Belt in Tae Kwon Do), lacrosse, baseball, football, coaching and being a referee health and wellness are an important part of his life.

He has also spent years raising cats, dogs and birds. As an engineer he spends a great deal of time working on his house, designing and fixing things and developing his new business platforms.

With his experience he has written articles to share the information and experiences developed over the years.

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For most dogs with long hair fall brings the second heavy shed of the year. Dogs such as the Belgian Sheepdog with it’s jet black coat can be strikingly beautiful if maintained with the appropriate dog grooming supplies.

You will notice during dog grooming that the coat of longhaired dogs is double, with a soft, dense inner coat and a longer, slightly coarser outer coat. The coat on the Belgian for example, is medium long with noticeable fringes on the legs and tail as well as longer and thicker hair around the neck in the ruff and chest area.

While dog grooming a Belgian take note of any white on the toes of the back feet, which can extend between the pads, any white on the front feet is a serious fault in the show ring. The muzzle can have a slight amount of white or gray coloration. In some areas, the coat may fade to a slightly reddish tinge and this is not a fault if it is due to the environment and not to the actual coloration of the dog.

The Belgian Sheepdog as well as all longhaired breeds of dogs “blows” their coat in the spring and fall. This means that the winter and summer coat is lost in a very heavy shed twice a year. Longhaired dogs actually have two coats; the outer coat is thicker, coarser and designed to provide protection and waterproofing. The inner coat is softer, shorter and denser, adding insulation for the dog.

When shedding the inner, softer coat often becomes matted or tangled with the longer, outer coat resulting in thick, knots of hair that may need clipping to be removed. Daily dog grooming with a quality dematting tool will prevent matts and tangles. Also during the shedding season, a bath with FURminator dog shampoo will loosen the hair and make dog grooming much easier. Remember to use only dog specific dog grooming supplies, as human products will cause skin irritations and other issues.

Bathing your longhaired dog in the heavy shed times of the year in your own bathtub will leave a mess. If you choose to do the bathing yourself, it is best done outside in a dog bath tub. This way all of the hair can be collected and discarded without clogging your drains. Using FURminator dog grooming supplies will keep your house hair free for about four to six weeks. To accomplish this goal you will need to really work up a lather when bathing and then immediately brush your dog when the bath is over.

Always groom the outer coat first using a stiff bristle dog brush or dog combs. After the outer areas, including the fringe on the legs and the longer hair on the ruff is completely knot free, use a dog-grooming rake or pin brush to brush the inner coat. Simply and gently, push the longer outer coat up and groom the inner coat downwards in the direction of hair growth. Using these dog grooming supplies daily, especially during the shedding season will prevent most knots and mats from forming.

Using dog grooming scissors, clip the hair around the feet and between the pads to prevent balls from forming between the toes. These balls of hair and debris can cause severe lameness and infections between the toes. Clipping the long hairs on the ears and plucking or pulling any long hairs, in the outer ear area will help prevent infections in the ear itself.

Lastly, your dog grooming sessions should include a brushing their teeth. This component is something some dog owners forget. Dog are just as susceptible to the same tooth and gum diseases as us humans. Grooming your dog should be fun for all. By using the appropriate dog grooming supplies, you will enjoy a cleaner house and beautiful looking dog with fresh breath ready for those sloppy kisses.

Michael, a dog owner for over 25 years, has amassed several dog obedience-training techniques as well as an extensive knowledge of dog health problems. Follow this link to read detailed information about your dog from temperament to health and to shop for dog grooming supplies visit the Pet Supply Store at Remarkable Dogs Where we are dedicated to providing only the very best for your dog.

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Some breeds have a reputation for being itchy. These include West Highland White Terriers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers and German Shepherds.

There are plenty of old wives’ tales relating to the care of our dogs. Is this just another one, or are some breeds really more itchy than others?

Breed Specific Skin Problems

There are definitely skin problems that occur in one breed much more than others. In many cases, there is a genetic component to these problems which explains why they’re more common in that particular breed, and not others.

One example is Epidermal Dysplasia in West Highland White Terriers. The term “dysplasia” means abnormal growth. This condition is caused by abnormal development of skin cells, which leads to inflammation and secondary infection with Malassezia yeast. The result is hair loss, and constant itching and scratching, which first appears at 12-18 months of age. This is a frustrating condition – treating the infection often resolves the itching but because of the underlying problem with the skin cells, it recurs as soon as medication is stopped. There are other specific skin diseases that occur in other breeds, and many of them are also suspected to be hereditary.

Are Allergies Hereditary?

Given that the majority of severe itching problems are caused by allergic reactions, it makes sense to look at whether or not some breeds are more allergic than others.

The most common allergy in dogs is flea bite allergy. Dogs with this problem can itch for several weeks if they’re bitten by just one flea, and they can bite and scratch themselves raw. As far as scientists can ascertain, there is no breed predilection for flea allergy.

The situation is similar to food allergy – there are no breeds that are particularly likely to develop this condition.

However, there is lots of evidence that atopy (or allergy to dusts and pollens) is more common in some breeds than others, and this does suggest that it may be hereditary. In fact, atopy occurs more frequently in some lines within those breeds.

Just to complicate things, some studies have suggested that atopic dogs are more likely to develop flea bite allergy. So, if that’s the case, can we then suggest there may in fact be a hereditary component to flea allergy dermatitis? Veterinarians aren’t sure about that one yet.

Managing Your Itchy Breed

Depending on the breed of dog you own, and the potentially hereditary skin condition you’re dealing with, your veterinarian may prescribe specific medication to alleviate his itch.

In the meantime, there are steps you can take to manage his condition.

1. Wash him in Comfy Dog Shampoo . It contains colloidal oatmeal which is well known for relieving itchy skin. It also contains herbal extracts to reduce inflammation and soothe red irritated skin. If you can follow up the shampoo with Fur Butter , your dog will have relief for longer.

2. Make sure he is never bitten by a flea. If he has an underlying atopy, he’s likely to also be more sensitive to fleas. This makes it even more important that you keep those little critters away. If you regularly apply Flea The Scene, he’ll not be bothered by fleas any more.

3. If he has a specific itchy spot, Itchin’ For Relief can help. It’s all natural ingredients relieve the itch, and its convenient nozzle makes sure you get the spray exactly where it’s needed.

4. If your dog has a skin problem that’s possibly hereditary, don’t breed from it. That’s easy to do with conditions that show up early in life. However, with skin allergies, they may not raise their ugly head until your dog is 2 or 3 years old. By this time, many purebred dogs have already had litters.

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If you take the time to correctly manage your dog with a hereditary skin disease, not only will he be more comfortable but you can reduce the incidence of that disease in the breed. That’s a win-win situation. http://www.happytailsspa.com/

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